The textiles of Rajasthan represent an amalgamation of generations of experimentation with fabric, handicraft skills, and a sharp eye for detail. These textiles, woven with incredible precision, are the result of an oral tradition that has passed down generations and been honed with finesse and purpose. 

Rajasthan’s textiles and handlooms are vibrant; they encompass sustainable techniques to produce wholesome results. The state is home to an umpteen number of handicrafts and these endpieces champion the local artisan that enlivens them. Almost all native garments are bright-coloured. In the olden days, it was believed that wearing dark-coloured clothes would help to locate those lost in the barren landscapes.

textiles of rajasthan

We recommend readers purchase handmade goods from local markets in Rajasthan to promote sustainable tourism. Some of Rajasthan’s rare and endangered arts require conservation and cultivation of ample opportunities that will allow them to thrive for future generations.

Let’s take a look at the top handlooms and textiles of Rajasthan:

Tie & Die

Textiles of Rajasthan – Bandhini or  Bandhejbandhini jaipur textiles of rajasthan

Tiny, incredibly precise designs are achieved in cloth by plucking and tying a thread to reveal artwork in bright shades of like vermillion, saffron, emerald, sapphire, and yellow yields. Along with style, there is also symbolism here – red can represent a Hindu bride, and yellow signifies maternity. Bandhini use is common on turbans, dupattas, and sarees, in accompaniment with embroidery, mirror-work, and appliqué.

textiles of rajasthan

A famous style of patterning the fabric with a tie-and-dye technique, the practice is 5000 years old. Bandhani means bandhna or to tie. Traditionally, it involved placing methi or fenugreek seeds on the cloth and tying them with string in places to leave a colour-block impression post dyeing. These days artisans make minuscule knots by pinching and twisting. Bandhani is best recognised by the natural wrinkles left on the fabric after it is complete.

textiles of rajasthan

The intricate design leftover on silk using natural colours made this an exquisite garment worn by the genteel society of Rajasthan. A skilled artisan was hired to embroider it and Bandhani became the preferred outfit for auspicious occasions like matrimonial and childbirth celebrations.

A tip: Hand wash a warm coloured bandhani in cool water and a light coloured in warm water to preserve them.

 

‘Leheriya’leheriya turban textiles

Lehariya means a wave, it is a symbol of Rajasthan’s shifting dunes by the desert winds; as a counter to the paradox represented by the arid land, lehariyas are dyed in bright colours. They are made with the resist-dyeing technique, where certain parts of the fabric maintain their original form while the others arrest the hues applied. Donning rainbow hues, this ancestral style of tie-and-dye has mostly adorned grooms’ safas and turbans of tradesmen. Women in Rajasthan wear chiffon sarees of this particular technique in the summers.

textiles of rajasthan

The fabric is carefully hand-rolled from one corner to another diagonally and tied with strings, layers of colours are incorporated by dyeing at intervals of cloth tying. Unique to the state, this particular craft is 700 hundred years old. Neelgarhs like multiple award winner Badshah Miyan have made a household name for their craft, particularly using the indigo dye to transcend the typical and achieve an extraordinary colour scheme.

textiles of rajasthan

The Neelgarh karigars maintain these heritage styles of dyeing using traditional methods with natural dyes that are sustainable and non-toxic to the environment.

A fact: The indigo dyes found in the Bayana region of Rajasthan keep the wearer cool in the summer and warm in the winter; the procedure to make this indigo taint is a tedious one that involves days.

 Printing

textiles of rajasthan

Bagrubagru

Very much similar to Sanganeri block printing, Bagru’s textile printers chose to focus on floral designs, and exclusively print using vegetable colour. Bagru work is also famed for its zigzag motifs.

textiles of rajasthan

The Chippas of Rajasthan is an ethnic group that has kept this wooden hand block printing alive for three to four centuries. They use tree extracts and natural colours. Bagru has a dyed or coloured background in comparison to Sanganer’s base which is a tabula rasa. The reddish hue of the base is due to the local river’s water being rich in clay sediments. This style of printing is ecological and indigenous to a particular community, giving them sustenance.

textiles of rajasthan

The colours of Bagru are mostly earthen, resembling the state’s landscape. The paste made to wash the cloth is made with cow dung, soda ash, and sesame oil.

The wooden blocks are carved by hand and after tree-based colours are prepared, printing is done on dyed fabric. It is labour intensive and can be done with both resist printing and direct dye printing methods. It is famous for incorporating ‘bel-butey’ in its motifs. Bagru is not only seen on garments, but also home furnishings and stationery items.

textiles of rajasthan

The town that specialises in this technique is Bagru, located 30km away from Jaipur. The name Chippa is translated as stamping and the community has been handing down their know-how for generations. Sadly, it is only the workshops of hand-block printing that are struggling to keep afloat the art and survive from threats of commercialization.

 Sanganeri  Block  Printingsanganeri

Rajasthan’s most popular hub of block and screen printing is Sanganer, famed for its sheer variety of folk patterns on white cotton. It is great for home linens and furnishing, including bed covers, table cloths etc. These motifs are made with thin black outlines and the use of red dye to colour figures and flowers.

textiles of rajasthan

This style of block printing is done with carved teak blocks on Sanganeri cotton material. Handblock printing is an organic art, it is time-consuming, unlike machine prints that lack character. Due to their wearability in India and abroad, these prints are high in demand for three-fourths of the year. Block prints are affordable and ecologically safe; fighting fast fashion’s aesthetics to ape this handicraft’s charm.

Many of us refer to this style as ‘Jaipuri print’ due to the mammoth market for prints in the capital city of Rajasthan. But it is Sanganer, south of Jaipur, that remains an evergreen hub for manufacturing this block-printed cotton. Sanganeri prints are distinguished by the clean slate of cloth used as a base and the sheer dominance of rich floral patterns on them. Fabrics are mostly cotton and cotton-linen, sometimes Silk Tussar and Kota are used too. Different materials pave the way for intriguing effects when dyed blocks are applied to them.

textiles of rajasthan

The art of block printing is more than a thousand years old. Worksmiths carve out intricately detailed designs on wooden blocks, then dip embossed blocks in dyes and stamp them onto pristine white fabric to achieve a vivid after-effect.

A fun tip: Carve out a hard-boiled potato and paint it, to indulge in a stamping activity with children at home.

Barmeri Vegetable Dye Printsbarmeri

Bold geometric prints are what set Barmer’s prints apart from the rest of Rajasthani textiles. Additionally, unlike the light floral colours, Barmer fabrics show darker shades as it takes inspiration from the Barmer’s location in the Thar Desert, where locals believe dark shades are cooler. It is also known as Ajrak, a word that translates as, “keep it today.” This involves a minimum of sixteen to a maximum of twenty-two steps before the process is complete. Ajrak is suitable to wear the whole year as the pores of the cloth close during winters to keep one warm while ventilating air in the summer. Not just garments, this style is most famous for home furnishings and tiles. The art is indigenous to Sindh, and is as old as 4000 years, with origins in the Indus Valley.

textiles of rajasthan

Ajrak is characterised by a dark colour background (a complete contrast to the Sanganeri print) and resist printing is done on both sides. Only vegetable dyes are used, especially those of the madder plant. Designs are detailed motifs, almost geometrical in balance and alignment; nature’s elements and the animal kingdom have found space in Ajrak prints.

textiles of rajasthan

This is a bit more expensive than other forms of printing as the style requires frequent washing and resting of the fabric; the abundance of minerals in the water has a positive effect on dyeing. Since Barmer faces water scarcity more than other regions, Ajrak printing becomes a costly affair.

textiles of rajasthan

When it is patched and embroidered onto white backgrounds, Ajrak is the protagonist of elegant designer wear. Indigo blue, pomegranate red, black, and yellow were the original colours used but now the palette has expanded.

A fact: Black dye is made with scrapped iron, jaggery, and tamarind.

 

Dabu Printing

textiles of rajasthan

A style of mud-resist printing that depends on the varied desert sands for a distinctive outlook. The technique had lost momentum in the last century but bounced back. Mostly seen on Indo-Western wear along with home decor and keepsakes, it has a boho appeal and is distinguished by its blue-on-blue feature. Since its revival, the colour palette of Dabu has widely broadened.

textiles of rajasthan

It almost appears to resemble the Batik style of printing, with its motifs of flowers, trees, birds, and fruits, along with other ethnic symbols. But preparing the dabu paste is a complex and laborious undertaking, with mud, lime, gum, and waste wheat chaff, which is eventually splattered on the dyed fabric, rendering a quirky effect. Post block printing, it is dried out in the sun and intensely washed to remove excess dye and paste.

textiles of rajasthan

A tip: Before wearing, it is best to wash the dabu print to check colour fastness and air-dry it to avoid colour fading under sunlight.

Bagru Printing

textiles of rajasthan

The Chippas of Rajasthan is an ethnic group that has kept this wooden hand block printing alive for three to four centuries. They use tree extracts and natural colours. Bagru has a dyed or coloured background in comparison to Sanganer’s base which is a tabula rasa. The reddish hue of the base is due to the local river’s water being rich in clay sediments. This style of printing is ecological and indigenous to a particular community, giving them sustenance.

textiles of rajasthan

The colours of Bagru are mostly earthen, resembling the state’s landscape. The paste made to wash the cloth is made with cow dung, soda ash, and sesame oil.

The wooden blocks are carved by hand and after tree-based colours are prepared, printing is done on dyed fabric. It is labour intensive and can be done with both resist printing and direct dye printing methods. It is famous for incorporating ‘bel-butey’ in its motifs. Bagru is not only seen on garments, but also home furnishings and stationery items.

textiles of rajasthan

The town that specialises in this technique is Bagru, located 30km away from Jaipur. The name Chippa is translated as stamping and the community has been handing down their know-how for generations. Sadly, it is only the workshops of hand-block printing that are struggling to keep afloat the art and survive from threats of commercialization.

Hand Embroidery

textiles of rajasthan

Gota Pati Needlework

textiles of rajasthan

Glittering and meaning, ‘golden leaf’, this work was once familiar only to the regal society of Rajasthan. Now, it is not exclusive or limited to royalty yet costs a pretty penny; it is a premium choice for Rajputi women’s wedding attire. Gota Patti was handcrafted by artisans who used real zari gold and silver in the past to embellish silk, chiffon, and satin garments; Lurex or Gilt has now replaced real gold and silver for this work. This is also called ‘ari’ work and was used to embellish the temple’s idol wear and make laces. Garments belonging to the state’s royals can be seen sporting this needlework in Rajasthan’s museums.

textiles of rajasthan

Ornamentation of leheriya and bandhani with golden lace threads is carefully done by skilled embroiderers on an ‘adda’, a wooden frame where the cloth is stretched. After tracing the desired design, gota pieces are cut into geometrical shapes and carefully assembled to form motifs like butas and held into place using chain stitch or zari thread.

Ralli Work

textiles of rajasthan

Ralli or Rilli is commonly known as patchwork and had its native origins in the Sindh province. Bringing together an array of colours and embroidered stitches on one frame is a true symbol of the fabric of Indian society. Like Ralli, different cultures, races, and classes come together to form our country’s diversity and reflect unity without overshadowing one another.

textiles of rajasthan

Ralli’s work starts laboriously as it begins with carefully selected colours used to embroider one patch; the needlework continues till several spectacular patches are made to finally combine them all as one. Mirrors are added for decoration and it is seen on quilts, jackets, handbags, stationery, and furnishings.

Applique Work

textiles of rajasthan

Another kind of interesting patchwork embroidery is the Applique Work or Shadow Work. Carefully cut out and patched, the embroidered cloth is placed onto a separate base to form meticulous patterns. Ruma Devi, a commoner from Barmer has uplifted many women like herself by showcasing their skill at needlework. A flagbearer for women’s financial independence since 2008, she made her first fashion week appearance in 2016.

textiles of rajasthan

Embroidered leather goods

textiles of rajasthan

Rajasthan leaves no space when it comes to handicrafts. The leather goods like handbags and mojdis are handmade with artsy embroidery. Bypassing simplicity, goods are embellished with mirrors and pita work as well. This work is mostly done by travelling banjaras or vagabonds using goat leather as the framework for their goods. The leather undergoes treatments to make it stable and sturdy before being transformed into a handicraft.

textiles of rajasthan

Special Mentions

Jaipuri Quilts  and  Quiltingjaipuri quilts

Famed across the world for their softness, warmth and the artistic attention to detail, they are worth the high price they command. Not only do they insulate well, but they’re also lightweight. Adornments include frills and embroidery. They are fluffy, and traditionally use 100 % pure, finely combed cotton with a high thread count and double stitching. They are also made in satin-silk for extremely cold conditions; snug with a royal sheen.

textiles of rajasthan

Another type of quilting is the Rajasthani quilted jacket. Like the Jaipuri quilts, these are handcrafted to perfection, made not to burden the wearer and yet warm. Colourful chain stitches called ‘Kantha’ add strength to this garment. Quilted jackets come in varied designs, with patchwork, embroidery, and prints..

textiles of rajasthan

 

Kota Doria ClothDoria Cloth

Kota Doria is among the many types of sari textiles made in Rajasthan’s Kota region, where it gets its name from. These pure cotton and silk fabrics feature checkered square patterns and are famed for their lightweight feel. Historically, Kota Doria weaving came from Mysore, after weavers were brought from Mysore to Kota by a Mughal army general. Application of a mixture of onion juice and rice paste during the process of weaving ensures the finish is incredibly durable.

It is common to spot machine-made Kota Doria fabric today.

textiles of rajasthan

The intertwining check pattern has been selected for sarees, dupattas, and other forms of dress. A special type of hand-weaving renders it soft like cotton with a chic translucency and yet it possesses silk-like lustre and strength. The fabric is further printed, dyed, and embroidered to achieve a stunning outlook. It doesn’t require high maintenance and hence is commonly worn.

textiles of rajasthan

Rajasthani Dhurries & Rugs

textiles of rajasthan

A small-scale industry that is flourishing by the sheer passion and hard work of its weavers. Carpet weaving requires yarn selection and dyeing of threads before being birthed into kaleidoscopic patterns. The transformation sees it through as a preferred choice for homeware as they are easy to maintain; with fast colours, they are light in weight and reversible, allowing for maximum utility. Cheaper than the Kashmiri carpets because dhurries are usually made with cotton or hemp(jute) and sometimes, camel or goat hair. The art is about 2000 years old and employs the primitive method of weaving.

textiles of rajasthan

Ranakpur is home to this ages-old tradition and the weavers were first inspired by the Ranakpur Jain Temple’s intricate carvings while seeking shelter in the temple grounds. Ranakpur Tribal Durry Udhyog is a modern initiative to provide means of livelihood to the many villagers who depend on dhurry-making for survival. Vegetable dyes like henna, saffron, turmeric, buckthorn and indigo are used. Since the dawn of sustainable handmade home decor, these Ranakpur dhurries have found a niché for themselves in the consumer markets. Artisans can customise pieces as per the buyer’s requirement, making them personalised ethnic collectibles.

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